Hotel/Trekking guest houses/Tent
2 - 15 People
An expedition to Amadablam is more than just a climb. It's a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Everest Region of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Amadablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible.
The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Amadablam was not made until the mid 60's by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.
Our ascent will also be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and three camps above base camp. The climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. A good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory: prior experience is required.
Objective dangers on the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason we have a low client: guide ratio and use experienced guides to keep you safely on track. Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, service and success.
Climbing Route & High Camps
Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To camp I (5,795m): Our first real camp is only one and half-hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp II (5,980m): This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock-climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this campsite is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Camp III (6,440m): Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp three: A cold and exposed position is the start of our summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6,812m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Maximum elevation: 6,812m
Himal, Region: Khumbu, Sagarmatha
Latitude, Longitude: 27° 51’ 42”, 86° 51’ 50”
Welcome to Himalayan country of Nepal. Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan intl. airport our representative welcomes you and assists to transfer in your hotel in Kathmandu. After time to get refreshed, evening you'll meet and transfer for welcome dinner.
After breakfast, we will meet to check your clothing and trekking equipment (sleeping bag, down jacket and trekking boots). This evening will be spent in Kathmandu.
Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 3- 4 hours trek (Trekking times only) After breakfast, we will be escorted to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport for an early morning flight to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), a gateway destination from where our trek begins. After an adventurous 40 minute flight above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach the Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. Upon arrival at Lukla, we meet our other crew members and after some packing and arrangements, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery. Overnight in Phakding. Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B,L,D)
Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,280 ft): 5 - 6 hrs Walking through a beautiful pine forest, the track leads us along the Dudh Koshi River through many suspension bridges, one of which is the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge. First, we catch wonderful prospect of the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6618 m). Through the settlement of Benkar, Chumoa, Monjo, we come to the check post and entrance to Everest National Park. We pass through the last village of Jorsale before reaching Namche Bazaar. The trail climbs through the forests and bridges until we reach the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers. After a final steep ascent of about two hours we get first sight of Mt. Everest peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. Upon this juncture, we stop at Chautara to admire the view. We still need to hike about 1.5 hours to reach Namche Bazaar, a gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. We stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.(B,L,D)
Namche Bazaar: Rest a day This is the first of the two days set aside for "acclimatization". Health experts recommend us to stay active and moving during the rest day too instead of being idle. We either spend the day taking a day's hike to Thame or visiting Khunde or relaxing and exploring Namche Bazaar itself. Namche Bazzar is the main centre of the Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. If we trek a few hundred vertical feet during the day, it will help us to properly acclimatize. Our guides take us to the Tourist Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where we can observe an assortment of things related to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various plant and animal life of the Everest region. (B,L,D)
Namche Bazzar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft): 5 - 6 hrs Upon breakfast in Namche, we set out towards Tengboche, enjoying superb view of Mt. Everest, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam and close up view of Thamserku. Our trek follows more or less smooth trail with few ups and downs which will not bother us as the magnificent view of the Himalayas keeps our company all through the journey. Along the way, we can spot wildlife musk deer, a herd of Himalayan Thar and multicolored pheasants. The trail goes gradually down up to Kayangjuma. The path eventually reaches Sansa, which is the major trail junction to Gokyo valley and Everest Base Camp. The track then follows through the pine forests and after we cross the prayer flags festooned bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, we reach Phunki Thenga, a small settlement with a couple of teahouses and a small army post amidst the alpine woods. After having a relaxed lunch at Phunki Thenga, we gear up for a slightly tougher climb through the pine forests before we reach Tengboche. Tengboche is a great place for close up views of Mt Ama Dablam, Mt Nuptse, and Mt Everest, and it has the biggest Buddhist Monastery of the Khumbu region. We pay our visit to the monastery the same day at around 3 pm to witness the ceremony in the principal and popular monastery of Everest region. Overnight stay at a lodge at Tengboche. (B,L,D)
With mountains at its backdrop, the monastery at Tengboche looks more spectacular in the morning. At this juncture, we can take pictures of the monastery and the scenery around and as usual start the day journey. We choose the upper trail for better views on the way to Pangboche village. We pass through several Chortens and Mani walls and small villages. The place where we stop for lunch not only serves delicious food but also allows a fantastic close-up view of Mt Ama Dablam. In the afternoon, we walk around Pangbuche Village Overnight at Pangbuche.(B,L,D)
AMA DABLAM BASE CAMP • 14,993' | 4,570M Moving above treeline, we hike to Base Camp via the small village of Pangboche, a large Sherpa village at the foot of Ama Dablam. Our path follows the Imja River which flows directly east of Pangboche. A couple extra hours bring us to Ama Dablam Base Camp. We spend the night in a teahouse located in Base Camp. (B, L, D)
Spare day for preparation
AMA DABLAM CAMP 1 • 18,000' | 5,486M The hike from Base Camp follows a pleasant route up the Cholungche River with incredible views of Kantega and Tamserku Peaks. We strategically camp a bit below the standard Camp 1, securing a cleaner source of water and avoiding heavy crowds. (B, D) AMA DABLAM CAMP 2 • 19,900' | 6,066M We start the technical part of Ama Dablam's climb, using fixed ropes to secure the airy rocky ridge that provides technical moves over exposed terrain. Camp 2 sits perched on the Yellow Tower, a rocky outcrop with space for just a few tents that provides one of the most surreal campsites anywhere in the world. (B, D) AMA DABLAM SUMMIT DAY (22,349') • 19,900' | 6,066M We start early in the night. Tricky mixed terrain leads to steep snow slopes that bring us to the plateau below the dramatic hanging Dablam glacier. Bypassing this well before sunrise, we continue for the final push to the top, surmounting the steep icy incline around the Dablam as the views of Everest and Lhotse on the other side greet us. The panorama from the summit is nothing short of astonishing. We stay just a few feet shy of the very top as it a sacred place for Buddhists. We descend back to C2 for the night. (B, D)
Spare day for rest
Very close destination and almost descending entirely, From Amdablam Base Camp walk downward to Dudkoshi River when getting close the river will enter deeper in gorge and getting close Sherpa village Pangbuche . Overnight at Pangbuche.(B,L,D)
Today, we again climb up through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Tuli Kharka below the Zatwra La where we’ll stay overnight at camp.
Today, we have a last day of the trek and we start to climb few hundred meters to the Zatrwa La top will be our last climb of the trip. After the top we descend up to Lukla village where we concludes the trekking part and this evening enjoy with crews at the last dinner at the mountain and overnight at teahouse.
Our flights is in the morning for Kathmandu from Lukla. After breakfast at Lukla hotel, you will check in to the airport and take your flight back to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel. You will have free time to relax, freshen up and rest. In the evening, we will meet you again, take you feedback of Everest Base Camp Trek and host a farewell dinner at one of the finest Nepalese restaurant in Kathmandu. O/N at Kathmandu.
Trek to Lukla 5-6 hrs trek Altitude: 2865m Today, we have a last day of the trek and we start to climb few hundred meters to the Zatrwa La top will be our last climb of the trip. After the top we descend up to Lukla village where we concludes the trekking part and this evening enjoy with crews at the last dinner at the mountain and overnight at teahouse.
Lukla - Kathmandu Today, we fly back to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. The early morning flight drops us in Kathmandu. We can rest and relax throughout the day at hotel. If we get interested to take some gifts home from Nepal for friends and relatives, we can visit to some nearby shops or venture out in Thamel for typical Nepalese goods. This short excursion either can be assisted by Virgin Nepal Trek and Expedition's guides or we can do it ourselves too. If we want to explore any other areas in Kathmandu, we have manage time for this today as well! At the evening we will be at a fantastic celebration dinner together for successfully completing our trek to Everest Base Camp hosted by Virgin Nepal Trek and Expedition! Overnight in Kathmandu at hotel Shanker or similar hotel. (B, D)
Farewell Friend The journey within the mountains of Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but we just trade emails to travel companions and organize our photos. If we have more time we can do some shopping or sightseeing. At last approximately 3 hours before our scheduled flight, a representative from Virgin Nepal Trek and Expedition escorts us to the airport. On our way to home we will have plenty of time to plan our next adventure trip in the wonderful country of Nepal.
All transportation as itinerary
Kathmandu on BB – Twin Sharing Room
Expedition Permit, Everest National Park TIMS Permit,
Flight : KTM - Lukla - KTM with domestic Airport Tax
Expedition Cargo: KTM-Lukla-KTM
Stool Shipment Transfer, Garbage Deposit Fees
1 Government Liaison officer and 1 Base Camp Manager
Food 3 meals a day during activity
All crew for trekking and climbing(guide,porter,cook etc)
All necessary Cooking gears and shelter
Power system at Base Camp
Well trained climbing guide
Equipment allowance, Insurance and insurance of Liaison officer
Wages, equipment allowance, insurance, high camps load ferry bonus and summit bonus etc of Climbing Sherpas
Shower facility at base camp
Fresh and organic food and beverages at Base Camp and imported quality high altitude food (individual packet)
Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base station & accessories Satellite phone for the emergency purpose
Lunch & dinner in during the stay in Kathmandu
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
Summit Bonus for climbing guide and tips for crew
Alcoholic,( Hot and cold drinks, hot shower, Mineral/ hot water, Desserts-during trek)
Personal insurance Medical/Emergency rescue cost (If require)
Any other expenses which are not mentioned in the Price Includes section.
Departure Tax/Personal equipment
Nepal entry visa fee, you can get a Nepal visa upon arrival at the Airport.
Almost all climbers use Italian OneSport shoes today. The One Sport company has been aquired by Millet - boots still looks the same but the brand tag is different.
Get them oversized (1-2 sizes). This is not your average weekend climbing trip and you need something where your toes have space to move freely, or you'll get frostbite by rush delivery.
HotTronics make great heating pads and wires that can be used in your boots on your summit attempt. Michael Strynoe rebuilt the battery packs to give more power at a lower weight using AA Lithium batteries.
Camp makes the ultralight titanium crampons. They are light, but considered not durable. We took our chances with them and they never broke on us.
Bring spares and carry one spare at the summit attempt. Secure them to the boots with steel wire if they keep falling of. There are however many brands of crampons around. Choose your favorites, remember only that ice climbing crampons differ from glacier crampons.
You will need multi-layer clothing for climbing between BC and C3. The temperature changes dramatically when the clouds obscure the sun.
One or two layers of lightweight Gore-Tex over fleece will work well, since the layers will be easy to shed or add. Carry a lightweight down jacket at all times. Use a cap to protect your head in the sun. Wear water-resistant gloves in the icefall and a good pair of down mittens higher up. Carry a spare mitten on your summit attempt.
Use a heavy down suit for the summit. We wear it already from C2 on the summit attempt in order to save weight. If you choose to do that, move early in the morning or you'll boil.
We have used down suites from both Mountain Hardware and North Face and they all worked equally well. Check that the hood will work together with the oxygen mask, covering your face properly. If possible, bring a spare down suit for cold nights in BC. Bring plenty of lightweight socks to change.
Use a heat-exchanging, wired face mask for protection against Khumbu- cough. Use the mask already from Gorak Shep. You'll get used to it and be protected right from the start. You should find the mask in stores for cross-country skiing. If you don't, check the gear link list on this web site. The Finnish manufacturer is listed there.
North Face makes a great no-nonsense harness. Remove the stuff that you don't need. Tie about half a meter of line with a carabiner for the fixed ropes. Forget screw carabiners, you want them big and simple at Everest. Make a knot halfway up the rope and hook up a jumar with another carabiner. Secure the jumar in the front to your backpack straps or at chest level when not in use, this being the easiest way to get hold of it. Use a repelling device or just a carabiner if you know the technique.
Arrangements may be cancelled at any time but the cancellation should be communicated to us in writing. Since cancellation incurs administrative costs, we will retain any deposit paid and in addition will apply cancellation charges as follows.
Period before departure within which written cancellation is received, and sum of cancellation charge shown as a percentage of the package price:
Hotel/Trekking guest houses/Tent
2 - 15 People