Region
Dhaulagiri
Grade
Modrate
Duration
40 Days
Accomodation
Hotel/Tea Houses/Tent
Group size
2-15
Best Seasons
May/October
Maximum Altitude
8091m
Group Size
2 - 12
Trip Type
Budget Travel, Nature Walk, Weekend Trips

Overview

The Lhotse Expedition, spanning 44 days, offers an extraordinary adventure to the summit of the world’s fourth-highest peak. Nestled in the Everest region of Nepal, Lhotse (8,516 meters) stands adjacent to Mount Everest and is renowned for its dramatic and rugged terrain. This expedition promises not only the thrill of scaling a towering Himalayan giant but also an immersive experience into the rich culture and natural beauty of Nepal.

The journey begins in Kathmandu, where climbers prepare for the expedition with thorough briefings and gear checks. From here, a scenic flight to Lukla marks the start of the trek through the picturesque Khumbu Valley. Trekkers traverse through Sherpa villages, dense forests, and suspension bridges, gradually acclimatizing as they make their way to Everest Base Camp.

The ascent of Lhotse is both challenging and exhilarating. The route follows the same path as the iconic South Col route on Everest up to Camp 3. From there, climbers face the steep and icy Lhotse Face, requiring technical skill and determination. The final push to the summit involves navigating through the notorious Lhotse Couloir, a narrow and steep gully that demands precision and endurance.

Reaching the summit of Lhotse offers unparalleled views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including Everest, Nuptse, and Makalu. The sense of achievement is immense, as climbers stand atop one of the world’s highest mountains, having conquered a formidable and technically demanding ascent.

The descent is equally important, requiring careful navigation and resilience. After returning to base camp, the expedition concludes with a trek back to Lukla and a flight to Kathmandu, where climbers can reflect on their incredible journey and celebrate their achievements.

The Lhotse Expedition is a true test of mountaineering prowess, physical endurance, and mental fortitude. It offers an unparalleled opportunity to experience the majesty of the Himalayas, the warmth of the Sherpa culture, and the thrill of high-altitude climbing. This expedition is ideal for experienced climbers seeking a challenging and rewarding adventure in one of the most iconic mountain ranges in the world.

Day 01 :

Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,400m)

Welcome to Himalayan country of Nepal. Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan intl. airport our representative welcomes you and assists to transfer in your hotel in Kathmandu. After time to get refreshed, evening you'll meet and transfer for welcome dinner.

Day 02 :

Kathmandu Preparation Days

Gear check and expedition briefing. - Obtain necessary permits. - Explore Kathmandu.

Day 03 :

Fly to Lukla 35 mins flight & trek to Chutanga 3-4 hrs trek Altitude: At Lukla 2,800m & Chutanga 3,450m

We drive to airport early in the morning to take our flight to Lukla. The scenic 35 minutes flight to Lukla caters the panorama of the peaks of Langtang, Rolwaling and Annapurna Himalayan Ranges. Landing at Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla . Instantly, after making the final arrangement for the Mera Peak Climbing , we kick off. A good trail leads through pasture to the edge of a diminishing forest of rhododendron and pine which clothes the steep hillsides above Lukla. We make steady progress on a good trail, crossing ridges and streams up to ‘kharka’ used for grazing yaks where we’ll stop for overnight tented camp.

Day 04 :

Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

Trek through pine forests and cross suspension bridges. - Acclimatization walk in Namche.

Day 05 :

Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

Short hikes to nearby viewpoints. - Explore local markets and culture.

Day 06 :

Trek to Tengboche (3,860m)

Visit Tengboche Monastery. - Enjoy panoramic views of Everest and Lhotse.

Day 07 :

Trek to Dingboche (4,410m)

Pass through rhododendron forests and alpine meadows.

Day 08 :

Rest at Marpha, overnight at tented camp

Short hikes to Nagarjun Hill or Chukhung Valley.

Day 09 :

Trek to Lobuche (4,910m)

Trek through high-altitude terrain with stunning mountain views.

Day 10 :

Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) via Gorak Shep (5,170m)

Visit Everest Base Camp. - Return to Gorak Shep for the night.

Day 11 :

Climb Kala Patthar (5,545m) and Trek to Lhotse Base Camp

Early morning climb for sunrise views. - Descend to Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 12-38 :

Climbing Period for Lhotse (8,516m)**

Acclimatization and rotation climbs. - Establish camps: Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III. - Summit push and return to Base Camp.

Day 39 :

Clean Up and Prepare for Departure

Pack gear and clean up Base Camp.

Day 40 :

Trek to Pheriche (4,240m)

Descend through the Khumbu Valley.

Day 41 :

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Return trek with overnight in Namche.

Day 42 :

Trek to Lukla

After breakfast ,final trek to Lukla.

Day 43 :

Lukla fly back to Kathmandu

Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. - Transfer to hotel.

Day 44 :

Departure from Kathmandu

Transfer to airport for departure.

Travel Gear

Shoes

Almost all climbers use Italian OneSport shoes today. The One Sport company has been aquired by Millet – boots still looks the same but the brand tag is different.

Get them oversized (1-2 sizes). This is not your average weekend climbing trip and you need something where your toes have space to move freely, or you’ll get frostbite by rush delivery.

HotTronics make great heating pads and wires that can be used in your boots on your summit attempt. Michael Strynoe rebuilt the battery packs to give more power at a lower weight using AA Lithium batteries.

Crampons

Camp makes the ultralight titanium crampons. They are light, but considered not durable. We took our chances with them and they never broke on us.

Bring spares and carry one spare at the summit attempt. Secure them to the boots with steel wire if they keep falling of. There are however many brands of crampons around. Choose your favorites, remember only that ice climbing crampons differ from glacier crampons.

Clothes

You will need multi-layer clothing for climbing between BC and C3. The temperature changes dramatically when the clouds obscure the sun.

One or two layers of lightweight Gore-Tex over fleece will work well, since the layers will be easy to shed or add. Carry a lightweight down jacket at all times. Use a cap to protect your head in the sun. Wear water-resistant gloves in the icefall and a good pair of down mittens higher up. Carry a spare mitten on your summit attempt.

Use a heavy down suit for the summit. We wear it already from C2 on the summit attempt in order to save weight. If you choose to do that, move early in the morning or you’ll boil.

We have used down suites from both Mountain Hardware and North Face and they all worked equally well. Check that the hood will work together with the oxygen mask, covering your face properly. If possible, bring a spare down suit for cold nights in BC. Bring plenty of lightweight socks to change.

Face mask

Use a heat-exchanging, wired face mask for protection against Khumbu- cough. Use the mask already from Gorak Shep. You’ll get used to it and be protected right from the start. You should find the mask in stores for cross-country skiing. If you don’t, check the gear link list on this web site. The Finnish manufacturer is listed there.

Harness

North Face makes a great no-nonsense harness. Remove the stuff that you don’t need. Tie about half a meter of line with a carabiner for the fixed ropes. Forget screw carabiners, you want them big and simple at Everest. Make a knot halfway up the rope and hook up a jumar with another carabiner. Secure the jumar in the front to your backpack straps or at chest level when not in use, this being the easiest way to get hold of it. Use a repelling device or just a carabiner if you know the technique.

Terms and Conditions

Booking and Payment:

– A deposit is required to confirm your booking.

– Full payment must be made before the expedition departure date.

– Payment methods and cancellation policies will be specified by the expedition company.

Expedition Itinerary:

– The expedition itinerary, including daily schedules and accommodation details, will be provided.

– Itineraries may be subject to change due to weather conditions, unforeseen circumstances, or the expedition guide’s discretion.

Permits and Documentation:

– Climbers are responsible for obtaining all necessary permits, including climbing permits and national park entry permits through the expedition company.

– Copies of valid identification (passport) and passport-sized photographs may be required for permit applications.

Health and Fitness:

– Climbers should be in excellent health and physically fit to undertake high-altitude climbing.

– Any pre-existing medical conditions or medications should be disclosed to the expedition company.

Insurance:

– Travel insurance covering emergency evacuation, medical expenses, and trip cancellation is mandatory.

– Proof of insurance coverage is required before the expedition.

Responsibilities:

– Climbers must follow the instructions and decisions of the expedition leader and Sherpa guides for safety and itinerary adherence.

– Respect local customs, culture, and environment during the expedition.

Equipment and Gear:

– Climbers are responsible for bringing appropriate climbing gear and clothing suitable for high-altitude conditions.

– Rental options for equipment may be available through the expedition company.

Liability:

– The expedition company and its guides are not liable for any loss, injury, or damage to personal belongings during the expedition.

– Climbers participate at their own risk and are advised to exercise caution at all times.

Force Majeure:

– The expedition company is not liable for delays or changes to the itinerary due to natural disasters, political unrest, strikes, or other force majeure events.

Cancellation and Refund Policy:

– Cancellation fees apply based on the timing of cancellation relative to the expedition departure date. Arrangements may be cancelled at any time but the cancellation should be communicated to us in writing. Since cancellation incurs administrative costs, we will retain any deposit paid and in addition will apply cancellation charges as follows:

– More than 60 days: Deposit Only

– 31 – 60 days: 50%

– 15 – 30 days: 75%

– Refund policies for unused services or changes to the itinerary will be outlined in the terms and conditions.

Safety and Emergency Procedures:

– Climbers must adhere to all safety protocols and emergency procedures established by the expedition leader.

– In the event of an emergency, climbers agree to cooperate fully with rescue operations and follow the instructions of the expedition team.

Environmental Responsibility:

– Climbers must commit to minimizing their environmental impact by following Leave No Trace principles.

– Proper disposal of waste and respect for local wildlife and ecosystems is mandatory.

Accommodation and Meals:

– Accommodation will be provided in tents or lodges as specified in the itinerary.

– Meals will be provided during the expedition, with special dietary requirements accommodated if communicated in advance.